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3D Print Troubleshooting, Calibration & Parts

Symptom diagnoser

What went wrong with your print?

Pick the symptom you can see on the plate. Every fix here is written against a specific failure mode, with the settings that actually change it.

3D print troubleshooting by symptom: a part that never stuck is an adhesion fault, gaps and thin lines are extrusion, and an offset part-way up is motion. 3D Print Troubleshooting: Find the Fault by What You Can See What to look for Three cheap things diagnose most of what follows. A tool kit with nozzle needles, tweezers and hex keys… ABS Not Sticking to Bed — A heat problem before an adhesion problem ABS Not Sticking to Bed: Chamber Heat First, Adhesive Second ABS not sticking to bed is a heat problem before it is an adhesion one. Chamber temperature, bed prep that survives 100 degrees, and when a brim is enough. ASA Warping — The enclosure is the fix, not a hotter bed ASA Warping: The Enclosure Is the Fix, Not a Hotter Bed ASA warping is solved by an enclosure, not by pushing the bed hotter. What chamber temperature it needs, why draughts crack layers, and when a brim helps. Diagram of a layer stack showing the seam print defect. Blobs, zits and a visible seam line A small defect where each layer starts and stops, stacked into a visible line. Diagram of a layer stack showing the crack print defect. Cracking and layer delamination Layers separate under load or on their own. Weak bonding from cold plastic or a cold chamber. Diagram showing overhang angle measured from vertical, with the 45 degree rule of thumb and a drooping unsupported edge. Drooping overhangs and failed bridges Plastic sags before it sets. Cooling and slower perimeters do most of the work. Diagram of a layer stack showing the foot print defect. Elephant foot on the bottom layer The first layers bulge outwards. Too much squish plus a bed hotter than it needs to be. Build plate pairings for first layer adhesion: PLA on PEI with no glue, PETG on textured PEI or smooth PEI with glue, ABS and ASA on smooth PEI with glue and a closed enclosure, TPU on textured PEI at low bed temperature. First Layer Not Sticking: What 3D Printer Bed Adhesion Depends On Nine times out of ten the plate is contaminated with skin oil, not badly levelled. Wash it before you touch the Z offset. Diagram of a layer stack showing the shift print defect. Layer shifting partway through a print Everything above a certain height is offset. Belts, grub screws or a speed the machine cannot hold. Diagram of a partially clogged nozzle showing debris restricting the melt zone above the nozzle orifice. Nozzle clogged: partial and complete blockages A partial clog degrades quality gradually; a complete one stops everything. The cold pull handles both. PETG Not Sticking to Bed — Usually the opposite problem to PLA PETG Not Sticking to Bed: Why It Is Usually the Opposite Problem PETG not sticking to bed is rarer than PETG sticking too hard. The nozzle gap it wants, why glue is a release layer here, and the temperatures that work. PETG Stringing — Normal for the material, not a fault PETG Stringing: Why It Strings More Than PLA, and What Fixes It PETG stringing more than PLA is normal, not a fault. Why the material oozes, the retraction numbers that work, and why drying it matters far more here. PLA Not Sticking to Bed — Four causes, in the order worth checking PLA Not Sticking to Bed: The Four Causes, in the Order to Check Them PLA not sticking to bed is almost never the filament. Four causes in the order worth checking: bed height, a dirty plate, first-layer speed, and draughts. PLA Stringing — Retraction and temperature, in that order PLA Stringing: Why Dry PLA Still Strings, and the Settings That Stop It PLA stringing is retraction and temperature, in that order, and dry filament still strings if the settings are wrong. A test you can run in eight minutes. PLA Warping — Uncommon enough to be a clue in itself PLA Warping: Rare Enough to Be a Clue in Itself PLA warping is uncommon enough to be a clue in itself: it points at a draught, a cold bed or a tall thin part, not at bad filament. What to change, in order. Diagram of a layer stack showing the detach print defect. Print detached mid-print and turned into spaghetti The part came off the plate and the nozzle kept extruding into air. Adhesion, warping or a knock. Diagram of a layer stack showing the ring print defect. Ringing and ghosting on vertical surfaces Echoes of a corner repeating across the wall. Mechanical vibration the frame cannot damp fast enough. Drying temperatures to cure stringing: PLA 4 hours at 55 C, PETG 4 hours at 65 C, ABS and ASA 4 hours at 80 C, TPU 6 hours at 55 C. Stringing and oozing between parts Fine hairs across gaps. Moisture first, temperature second, retraction third — in that order.
Not a print defect? Error codes  ·  Calibration  ·  Filament
HMS, MINTEMP, thermal runaway, homing failed

Error codes

All error codes →
HMS 0500-0300-0002-0020: USB Flash Drive Capacity Is Insufficient HMS 0500-0300-0002-0020 means the USB drive has no room left to cache print files. It is the one code in this whole family that you can clear in a minute. HMS 0500-0300-0002-000C: Wireless Hardware Error, Turn WiFi Off and On HMS 0500-0300-0002-000C is a wireless hardware error. Toggle WiFi, restart, and then look at the signal the printer gets, not the one your phone sees. HMS 0500-0300-0001-0021: Hardware Incompatible, Please Check the Laser HMS 0500-0300-0001-0021 means the hardware is incompatible and asks you to check the laser. A restart will never clear a compatibility check, so stop trying it. HMS 0500-0300-0001-0024: The Current Temperature Is Too Low HMS 0500-0300-0001-0024 means the temperature is too low and printing is blocked. Nothing is broken at all: the room is simply too cold to operate in safely. HMS 0500-0300-0001-0023: The Chamber Temperature Control Module Is Malfunctioning HMS 0500-0300-0001-0023 means the chamber temperature control module failed. Nothing stops immediately, which is why people find out when an ASA part warps off. HMS 0500-0300-0001-000D: The Induction Hotend Rack Is Malfunctioning HMS 0500-0300-0001-000D means the induction hotend rack is malfunctioning. It is a heated assembly, so suspect aged insulation as much as a loose plug. HMS 0500-0300-0001-000C: The MC Motor Controller Module Is Malfunctioning HMS 0500-0300-0001-000C means the MC motor controller module is malfunctioning. Check the connection and then the cooling before you go and order a new board. HMS 0500-0300-0001-0007: Toolhead Expansion Module Malfunctions, Inspect Wiring HMS 0500-0300-0001-0007 means the toolhead expansion module failed and asks you to inspect the wiring connections. That instruction is better than it looks. HMS 0500-0300-0001-0004: The Filament Buffer Module Is Malfunctioning HMS 0500-0300-0001-0004 means the filament buffer module is malfunctioning. It shares a loom with the AMS, so one loose cable can produce both codes at once. HMS 0500-0300-0001-0003: The AMS Module Is Malfunctioning HMS 0500-0300-0001-0003 means the AMS module is malfunctioning. It names the module rather than a slot, so this is a firmware and a wiring question first. HMS 0500-0300-0001-0002: The Toolhead Is Malfunctioning, Restart the Device HMS 0500-0300-0001-0002 means the toolhead module is malfunctioning and asks for a restart. Power off at the wall: a menu restart leaves modules powered. HMS 0700-2000-0002-0027: Resistance Between the Track Switch and the Buffer HMS 0700-2000-0002-0027 means resistance between the track switch and the buffer. It is the downstream half of the pair, and the last code in this family.
Z offset, flow, pressure advance, input shaper

Calibration

All calibration →
Temps, drying, enclosures, PLA vs PETG vs ASA

Filament

All filament →
Nozzles, plates, hotends — and what fits what

Parts & fit

All parts & fit →
OrcaSlicer, Bambu Studio, Cura, PrusaSlicer

Slicer

All slicer →
Which printer, which AMS, what fits your filaments

Upgrade & buy

All upgrade & buy →