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3D Print Troubleshooting, Calibration & Parts

Symptom diagnoser

What went wrong with your print?

Pick the symptom you can see on the plate. Every fix here is written against a specific failure mode, with the settings that actually change it.

Diagram of a layer stack showing the seam print defect. Blobs, zits and a visible seam line A small defect where each layer starts and stops, stacked into a visible line. Diagram of a layer stack showing the crack print defect. Cracking and layer delamination Layers separate under load or on their own. Weak bonding from cold plastic or a cold chamber. Diagram showing overhang angle measured from vertical, with the 45 degree rule of thumb and a drooping unsupported edge. Drooping overhangs and failed bridges Plastic sags before it sets. Cooling and slower perimeters do most of the work. Diagram of a layer stack showing the foot print defect. Elephant foot on the bottom layer The first layers bulge outwards. Too much squish plus a bed hotter than it needs to be. Build plate pairings for first layer adhesion: PLA on PEI with no glue, PETG on textured PEI or smooth PEI with glue, ABS and ASA on smooth PEI with glue and a closed enclosure, TPU on textured PEI at low bed temperature. First layer not sticking to the build plate Nine times out of ten the plate is contaminated with skin oil, not badly levelled. Wash it before you touch the Z offset. Diagram of a layer stack showing the shift print defect. Layer shifting partway through a print Everything above a certain height is offset. Belts, grub screws or a speed the machine cannot hold. Diagram of a partially clogged nozzle showing debris restricting the melt zone above the nozzle orifice. Nozzle clogged: partial and complete blockages A partial clog degrades quality gradually; a complete one stops everything. The cold pull handles both. Diagram of a layer stack showing the detach print defect. Print detached mid-print and turned into spaghetti The part came off the plate and the nozzle kept extruding into air. Adhesion, warping or a knock. Diagram of a layer stack showing the ring print defect. Ringing and ghosting on vertical surfaces Echoes of a corner repeating across the wall. Mechanical vibration the frame cannot damp fast enough. Drying temperatures to cure stringing: PLA 4 hours at 55 C, PETG 4 hours at 65 C, ABS and ASA 4 hours at 80 C, TPU 6 hours at 55 C. Stringing and oozing between parts Fine hairs across gaps. Moisture first, temperature second, retraction third — in that order. Diagram of support structures under a part showing the interface gap between the support top and the part underside. Supports that will not come off Supports fused to the part. Increase the Z gap and reduce the interface density. Diagram of a layer stack showing the gap print defect. Under-extrusion: thin, gappy walls Not enough plastic is arriving. Partial clog, worn nozzle or an uncalibrated flow rate — check in that order. Warping risk by material: PLA very low shrinkage with no enclosure needed, PETG low with an enclosure helpful for large parts, ABS and ASA high shrinkage with an enclosure required. Warping: corners lifting off the bed Plastic shrinks as it cools and pulls the corners up. Heat is the fix, not adhesion tricks. Diagram of a layer stack showing the band print defect. Z banding: repeating horizontal lines up the print Bands at a regular pitch. Measure the spacing — it tells you which part is at fault.
Not a print defect? Error codes  ·  Calibration  ·  Filament
T1 Print defects Stringing, warping, first layer, under-extrusion 14 articles T2 Error codes HMS, MINTEMP, thermal runaway, homing failed 28 articles T3 Calibration Z offset, flow, pressure advance, input shaper 4 articles T4 Filament Temps, drying, enclosures, PLA vs PETG vs ASA 50 articles T5 Parts & fit Nozzles, plates, hotends — and what fits what 71 articles T6 Slicer OrcaSlicer, Bambu Studio, Cura, PrusaSlicer 8 articles T7 Upgrade & buy Which printer, which AMS, what fits your filaments 192 articles
HMS, MINTEMP, thermal runaway, homing failed

Error codes

All error codes →
HMS 0300-9300-0001-0006: chamber temperature sensor fault The chamber temperature reading has become implausible. It affects heated chamber control, not the hotend or the bed. HMS 0300-0100-0001-0008: heatbed heats too slowly The bed is heating, but not at the rate the printer expects. Usually ambient conditions or a draught rather than a failed heater. HMS 0300-1000-0002-0001: X axis resonance frequency low The measured resonance of the X axis has dropped below the expected band. Nearly always belt tension. HMS 0300-0600-0001-0001: motor A open circuit One of the two CoreXY motors reads as disconnected. On a CoreXY machine, losing one motor breaks both axes at once. HMS 0300-1d00-0001-0001: extruder position sensor fault The feedback that tells the printer the extruder is actually moving filament has stopped making sense. HMS 0300-0900-0001-0002: extruder motor short circuit The extruder motor is drawing more current than its winding resistance allows. Unlike the open-circuit code, this one usually is the motor. HMS 0300-0900-0001-0001: extruder motor open circuit The extruder motor reads as disconnected. Usually the toolhead connector rather than the motor windings. HMS 0300-0900-0002-0002: extrusion resistance too high The extruder is meeting more resistance than expected. Either the melt path is restricted or the filament is not moving freely into it. HMS 0300-0300-0001-0001: hotend cooling fan stopped The hotend cooling fan is turning too slowly or not at all. This is the fan that stops the filament softening above the melt zone. HMS 0300-0200-0001-0007: hotend temperature sensor fault The hotend thermistor is reading implausibly. The sensor tells the printer how hot the nozzle is, so the machine stops rather than guess. HMS 0300-0200-0001-0002: hotend heater open circuit The hotend heater reads as disconnected. Usually a pulled crimp at the connector, sometimes a broken lead, occasionally the cartridge itself. HMS 0300-0200-0001-0001: hotend heater short circuit The hotend heater cartridge is drawing more current than its resistance allows. A short in the cartridge or its lead.
Z offset, flow, pressure advance, input shaper

Calibration

All calibration →
01 Key figures for Bed levelling and mesh compensation: 121 points on 420 mm, 16 points on 180 mm. Bed levelling and mesh compensation 2 min read 02 Diagram of ringing: a sharp corner followed by a decaying oscillation echoing across the wall, which input shaping cancels. Input shaper and resonance compensation explained 2 min read 03 Diagram of flow rate calibration: measure the single wall thickness with calipers, then scale the existing flow by target width divided by measured width. Flow rate and extrusion multiplier calibration 2 min read 04 First layer squish guide: round strands with gaps means lower Z by 0.02 mm, visible valleys means lower 0.01 mm, a solid sheet is correct, a ridged rippled surface means raise 0.01 mm. Z offset: dialling in first layer squish 2 min read
Temps, drying, enclosures, PLA vs PETG vs ASA

Filament

All filament →
Nozzles, plates, hotends — and what fits what

Parts & fit

All parts & fit →
01 Key figures for 3D Printing Hotend Upgrade: High Flow, All-Metal, and When the Stock One Is Fine: 300 °C standard, 350 °C high-temp, 40 mm³/s flow. 3D Printing Hotend Upgrade: High Flow, All-Metal, and When the Stock One Is Fine 3 min read 02 Key figures for SUNLU Filament Dryer: S1 Plus, S2 or S4, and Which Materials Each One Can Dry: 45 °C PLA, 65 °C PETG, 80 °C nylon. SUNLU Filament Dryer: S1 Plus, S2 or S4, and Which Materials Each One Can Dry 3 min read 03 Key figures for IKEA 3D Printer Enclosure: Lack, Besta or a Cabinet, and How to Make Each Work: ~40 °C passive, 0 °C heated. IKEA 3D Printer Enclosure: Lack, Besta or a Cabinet, and How to Make Each Work 3 min read 04 Key figures for 3D Printer Camera: Official Add-On, Webcam or Phone, and What It Actually Catches: 720 p older, 1080 p current, 30 fps. 3D Printer Camera: Official Add-On, Webcam or Phone, and What It Actually Catches 3 min read 05 Key figures for 3D Printer Nozzle Cleaning: Cold Pull, Needle, or Just Replace It: 0.4 mm bore, 0.35 mm needle, 2 strikes then replace. 3D Printer Nozzle Cleaning: Cold Pull, Needle, or Just Replace It 3 min read 06 Key figures for 3D Printer Cabinet or Stand: What a Good One Does for Print Quality: ~40 °C passive, 48 dB quieter. 3D Printer Cabinet or Stand: What a Good One Does for Print Quality 3 min read
OrcaSlicer, Bambu Studio, Cura, PrusaSlicer

Slicer

All slicer →
01 Key figures for Importing Cura profiles into OrcaSlicer: 0.4 mm nozzle, 0.2 mm layer, 0.42 mm width. Importing Cura profiles into OrcaSlicer 2 min read 02 Key figures for Max volumetric speed: the real limit on print speed: 40 mm³/s hotend, 0.2 mm layer, ~380 mm/s ceiling. Max volumetric speed: the real limit on print speed 2 min read 03 Infill pattern comparison: gyroid is isotropic with no self-crossing, grid is fast and strong in two axes, cubic is good all round, lightning uses minimal material. Infill patterns: gyroid, grid and when it matters 2 min read 04 Diagram comparing a brim, a flat ring of extra outline around the first layer, with a raft, a printed slab underneath the whole part. Brim vs raft: which one and when 2 min read 05 Top view diagram of a cylinder showing seam placement options: aligned in one column, random around the wall, and tucked at the rear. Seam position settings that actually help 2 min read 06 Diagram comparing tree supports, which branch up to contact points, with normal grid supports that fill the whole area under an overhang. Tree supports vs normal supports 2 min read
Which printer, which AMS, what fits your filaments

Upgrade & buy

All upgrade & buy →