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3D Print Troubleshooting, Calibration & Parts

HMS 0300-1800-0001-0008: nozzle abnormally touching the heatbed

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HMS 0300-1800-0001-0008 fires when the nozzle contacts the bed where clearance was expected, usually because of a filament bead on the tip. Affects A2L, H2S and P2S.
Short answer

The machine detected the nozzle touching the bed where it expected clearance. Look for a bead of filament on the nozzle tip or something on the plate before adjusting anything in the firmware.

Difficulty easy Time 15-30 min Parts none to under $25 Tools Tweezers, brass brush, gloves

Affected machines: A2L, H2S, P2S. The check exists to stop the nozzle digging into the plate, which is a far more expensive outcome than a stopped print.

How to remove a filament bead: warm the hotend then use tweezers, a warm brass brush is acceptable, and scraping cold with steel damages the tip.
The tip must be warm before anything touches it. Scraping a cold nozzle removes plating and leaves burrs that make the next print worse, not better.

Where to buy

1
Prime Best Seller

3D Printer Nozzle Cleaning Kit - 0.4mm Needles and Tweezers Toolkit - Stainless Steel Nozzle Cleaning Tool Kit - Alternative for 0.4mm Drill Bits for 3D Printer - Set of 11

AMERVAULT
In Stock
9.8 /10
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Updated: Sep 1, 2026
Last update on Sep 1, 2026 / Affiliate links / Images, Product Titles, and Product Highlights from Amazon Creators API.

Residue on the tip is the usual culprit

A bead of hardened filament on the outside of the nozzle makes the effective tip lower than the machine believes. During probing or during a first layer, that extra material makes contact before the real tip does, and the firmware sees contact where there should have been a gap.

It builds up quietly. Every failed print, every purge, every stringy retraction leaves a little, and a nozzle that looks clean from a metre away often has a visible skirt of plastic under a light.

Symptom

Machine halts during probing or in the first layer, reporting unexpected contact

Most likely cause

Hardened filament on the nozzle tip, debris on the plate, or a stored Z offset that is now wrong

The fix
  1. Heat the hotend to printing temperature so any residue softens; never scrape a cold nozzle.
  2. With gloves on, wipe the tip with a brass brush or lift the bead off with tweezers.
  3. Let the plate cool, then inspect the contact area for a lump of plastic left from a previous print.
  4. Wash the plate if the surface is contaminated rather than simply carrying one lump.
  5. Re-run the levelling sequence so the machine stores a map taken from a clean tip.

If the tip and the plate are both clean and the code returns, the stored Z offset is the next suspect, and the calibration routine is the correct way to reset it rather than nudging the number by hand.

Our page on nozzle cleaning covers cold pulls and the tools that do and do not damage a tip. Z offset and first layer squish covers what the number actually controls, and the troubleshooting index covers the rest.

FAQ

Can I just lower the Z offset? No. That hides a mechanical problem and eventually gouges the plate.

Is a brass brush safe on the nozzle? Yes, warm and gently. Steel brushes and cold scraping are not.

Why re-run levelling afterwards? Because the stored map was taken with the bead present and is now wrong.

Could the plate be the problem? Yes, if something is stuck to it. Check both surfaces.

LayerWalker

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